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Post Info TOPIC: QUICK FUEL carb ,is back.


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QUICK FUEL carb ,is back.


Sorry,trying this here, couldnt post a pic onto my original post? They told me that,there was a few hrs spent ,in modifying this carb,to make it work on my 500 HP mtr. They explained several of the things,which also included some machinning? Most of which I didnt understand. It was all free,thats the good news.. Dales Chevy and my built SLAYER carb 010.JPG



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Free is always good news!!..😀

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Thats a good looking carb. Now if it can work as good as it looks you will be in business!

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Dales Chevy and my built SLAYER carb 011.JPGYeah, got it installed this afternoon.. 100 % improvement, throttle response improved drasticlly.. Idles good, air adj,s work LOL and found another problem while adjusting the carb, #6 plug wire near plug boot,was arcing over to where the header makes a sharp bend. Evidently ,been doing that for a while. As theres a gray burned area there on the wire. Tomorrow,I,ll change the wire out.I have a big assortment of matching MSD wires.. Soo think I,ll find one that fits. Hopefully this ends the saga,and can go for a test drive and than wrap it up for the winter. Had a bit of snow early this morning and was 22 degrees. Gonna get cold tonight,so got a bathroom faucet dripping.. Showing a diff pic LOL,as I put the linkage etc on the carb on the 50,s dinette in the 50,s room..



-- Edited by mokanracer on Saturday 21st of November 2015 05:17:39 PM

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Well pulled #6 plug for inspection,was ok. Replaced the plug wire, and just now ,went for a test ride. Runs better, but still has issues. Running rough like before, but not as bad,,and when you shut it off,it continues to run for a few sec,s..It was beginning to do this before. ?? The engine MFGR suggested that the valves need to be relashed.. Might be one or 2 ,too tight. Any one have any ideas? Ive had old cars that did that also. Dont remember what it was.


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Check timing again...sounds like that or maybe running too lean...are the electronics wired correctly?..had an issue with motor running after key was turned off..incorrect wire job!



-- Edited by cr55 on Sunday 22nd of November 2015 01:47:30 PM

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Where was your wiring prob??

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Just double check your firing order to make sure your wired correctly. And then check your timing. Sounds like your fire is mest up if its still running with the key off.

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Its not missing while in Neutral. But does on the rd? Isnt back firing. so wouldnt suspect wiring is out of order. Has very hot spark. Runs crisp and responzive in the garage.. Rich smell of gas fumes.. Prob due to the high octane fuel? But ,yeah, Im beginning to think maybe timing is wrong. Its pulling strong under heavy acceleration.


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If it's pulling strong under a load, then its probably not timing Strong smell of gas could mean a power valve problem,,,if it has one.

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The carb just spent 2 days in the Mfg,s shop, being rebuilt for this mtr. Which included power valve change. I know the original PV is a 10.5 . I have a large selection of them,from my racing days. But I,m kinda leaning toward what the engine builder said,about a couple valves being too tight? And maybe timing? The timing is at 45 degrees.


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I'm not certain...but isn't the timing a little too far advanced? I thought around 38 total....don't hold me to that!...also the p/v sounds a bit too big....I would definitely check the valves and the timing first before I started spending any money on parts!

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Oh ,not gonna be spending money, I dont know what pwr valve they changed to. I ran 6.5 in my race mtr. I ran the distb locked at 34 degrees. This mtr has 10.6 compression, and the shop guy that put the mtr in the 56 for me,told me it was 45 degrees. Yes I thought that was a bit much.But wasnt sure he knew what he was looking at. The mtr builder didnt comment when I told him it was at 45 degrees. Getting diff info,from every one I talk to? I think it should be 36 to 38 ,soo maybe I will do that 1st,it has vac advance..I have been thinking about taking it to the city to a perf shop and paying for a complete perf tune up, including lASHING THE VALVES.??

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Yeah CR. I think I need,d a kick start. Its good to be able to have some one to debate mtr probs with. 45 degrees doesnt make sense. Plus as I think about it.. Its kicked back thru the carb when starting it ,esp if I dont allow it to warm up.. Which could be timing and tight valves.. The heads have stud girdles, hate the thought of going thru all that.. Its a hyd roller.. But HP peaks at 6000 rpm ,,Any way,gonna fool with timing next,and see how it reacts.
Thx

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My 11:1 408sbc is timed at 34 runs wicked. I think 45 is a bit much. But that is just me.



-- Edited by 88ss408 on Monday 23rd of November 2015 07:07:48 AM

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Yes,thats what I said, my race mtrs,I ran with a locked distb at 34 Degrees.They were 15:1 .. Thats what they liked. Thx

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I remember running a 350 with 10:5 forged pistons and a shaved block and heads for who knows how much final compression and when I tried to bump timing past 34 degrees, the motor ran like crap and wouldn't shut off...Plus it was hard to start and even tougher on starters!

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Mtr starts easy tho. I think it has multiple problems,, Timing and valve lash, for starters.. I havent messed with it today.

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Let us know how you make out....

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my sbc 396 likes 36dgrs of timing. Have you checked the accelerator pumps and needle and seat. Also I don't know if you have adjustable air bleeds they may need to be drilled out   



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rick



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The carb spent 2 days at the Mfgr,s in Bowling Green, being rebuilt and modified to work with my mtr. I had discussions with them on diff occasions as well as with the Engine builder. I can only hope they are the experts..and knew what they were doing. I havent worked on it any more. But next semi warm day, I am gonna look at the timing. and pull it down some. The shop that checked it,said timing was at 8 degrees, and when throttled up, went to 45 ??
I think it was prob checked with vac advance connected. Any way,, will let ya all know what happens next..

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