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RE: 88 dakota surging


yes it is an AC truck, it's one of the only things that work on this truck. I think the v6 is interanlly balanced as well as the 318? the trans is bad in the 318 donor truck im not sure if the convertor is good or not



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I had to try one more thing befor pulling the motor. I unplugged the iac not sure what that stands for but it's for the idle control that thing that makes the idle up or down. anyway i unplugged it and it kept running, plugged it in it dies. it doesnt have any power when i put it in gear with this inplugged it just spits and sputters popping threw the tb. any ideasblankstare



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rjsbu wrote:

I had to try one more thing befor pulling the motor. I unplugged the iac not sure what that stands for but it's for the idle control that thing that makes the idle up or down. anyway i unplugged it and it kept running, plugged it in it dies. it doesnt have any power when i put it in gear with this inplugged it just spits and sputters popping threw the tb. any ideasblankstare


 just went out and disconected the battery then started it, it idled fine but still had off idle flat spot then at wid open throttle it got up to about 3500 or 4000 rpm and then started shaking and sputtering but would still idle.



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In My first reply at the top I talked about the Air Bypass Valve . Also known as the IAC -> Idle Air Control it does just that Kinda Like when your Carb is on Fast Idle and the Throttle Plates are cracked open more causing a Higher Idle . The Idle Air Control opens as the Temp Sensor and Oxy Sensor gives info to the ECM / Computer so if the Temp sensor shows a Cold Engine Temp it reports this to the Computer and it then sends the correct Voltage to the Idle Air Control Valve causing it to open More to increase the Idle Speed of the Engine . The IAC is a Motor with a Tip that Seats in different positions . And Yes when it's sticking or not working right your Idle will be way off even stalling out the car . But most of the Time that Valve is ok it's the info that the sensors are giving it that makes it way off . Even a Bad Ground will through it's Voltage signal off . But Yes if it's Dirty or Sticking it will fail and need to be replaced .



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finally put a fuel pressure gauge inline befor the regulator truck did it's normall start run for a few then die, the fuel pressure is at 10psi at start up then goes away. if i run the trottle by hand  it will keep running but try dieing if i don't work the throttle fast and the fuel pressure goes away. I checked the wire all the way to the pump, has good 12 volt power so it has to be the pump. anything else i should check before getting a new pump?



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Clogged Filter pinched Rubber Fuel Line . That Test port should be before your regulator so if you find no other issues the Pump should be to blame . Can you hear the pump running ?

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I tested befor the pressure reg. the pump runs when you first turn the key then stops untill it starts. I also jumped the pump with a wire to make it run all the time and the results are the same. I changed the sock on the pump and the inline filter




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If you have 12.50 Battery Volt to that Pump and all it's giving you is 10 p.s.i Running that Pump is faulty . In most cases 45 p.s.i. to 55 p.s.i. is standard in port injection system and 14 p.s.i. to 18 p.s.i. in a TBI .


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I checked the distributor and it seems pretty tight no real side to side slop. I did replace the pickup and no difference. the pump just doesnt seem to put out enough pressure and thats why I checked the wireing and cleaned all the grounds I could find. I bought this pump new from an Ebay dealer after rereading the add it is (like OEM) probably the reason I paided half of what regular pump costs $40 vs $80 live and learn  



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fuel pump didnt work go figure!!! going to try and clean the injectors. it will start go to a high idle then idle down then surge a little then die, I put my blaster 2 coil on it, it started easier but the results were the same. I did clean the screens on the injectors and it ran a little longer. Well back to the drawing board.



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We know that Pump was bad because the PSI was way down . I am sure you have changed that Filter more then one Time and clean out them injectors as best that you could more then once . With the Extra Parts you got with that Truck . Did you get another ECM Engine Computer ? When we have this much trouble with a Run Problem after doing the tune up and going through the Fuel System . We plug in another ECM and see how it runs . I have changed more Bad ECM's then you would think . I remember a Guy at another shop changing an Engine only Later to Find the ECM was bad .

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the other truck had a manual trans and was carbureted so the ecm was no go. a freind is at the local picknpull looking right now for an ecm. I hope he comes up with something. the injectors had 17ohms both I believe to be in spec also recleaned the injector screens again and adjusted timing



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Not sure if you tried one . But a Bad Map Sensor can cause all kinda run Problems . Did you ever do a Compression Test on that Engine . The Computer works Well at over Fueling other cylinders to compensate for a weak or Dead Cylinder . You will think it's a ign or Fuel injector Problem by how it will run .

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replaced the map have'nt done a compression test. I was thinking that the fuel pump sits in a plastic bucket with a small hole  in the bottom this fills when under 1/2 tank if it's plugged or restricted the fuel flow may not be able to keep up with the pump it's the only other thing i can think of



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it will be a pain it rear but it's about the only thing I can think of. I'll put the fuel line in a can and see if it pumps fuel consistantly or if it runs dry after a short time



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got it to idle!!! adjusted timing got it set to factory only problem is when i plug the coolant temp back up it shuts down. If everyone living back east looks to the west they may see a puff of black smoke that will be this little truck couse its about to go up in flamesevileye



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Now that's good and Bad . The good thing it the Temp Sensor circuit is working . The bad is that it must be telling the ECM it's Cold Like winter start up Full Rich . Is it Dumping Lot's of Fuel when you plug in that Temp Sensor ? This is were a scanner would be much Help to you . You could Read what the Temp Sensor is sensing I have seen one reading near zero in the summer . That Joker was Dumping Fuel Like a Fire Hose does water washed out 2 sets of Spark Plugs till I got to it .



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back to the same today starts and stops. Just had a thought but don't know if these had one or not but could the oil sending unit be shutting it off if it's tied into the fuel pump? it has good oil pressure or seems to

forgot i wired the pump to stay on before so thats out




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See if you can get a scanner hooked up to it and check the reading to see what is out of rang . Also do a Compression check that engine could very well have a Cylinder with bad valves or Head Gasket / Cracked Head .

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got a snap on scanner from a freind but no place to hook up I think these have to be tested on a bench in a lab in another country far far away. Tommarow I will take the bed of one more time check the fuel system again just to make sure there are no problems and check the distibutor it doesnt seem sloppy but it could be grounding out and causing the injectors to shut down, I don't know how much play it should have but it seems pretty tight and I will do a compression test



-- Edited by rjsbu on Tuesday 30th of August 2011 03:54:22 AM

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After replaceing everything it isnt showing any codes, go figure. I have a freind that is pretty good at  this stuff, he said he would come over today after work and give me a hand. That and i towed his boat back from the lake sunday cause of problems he had. If we can't get it running today then it's going to have to sit untill next summer. 



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I checked the ohm's on the temp sensor started at 2000 and kept making it run long enough to build heat and resistance dropped so it should be working. I took my blaster2 coil off and bought a new stock coil now it wont start at all, I think it burnt the pick up in the distrubutor out. Thats a great idea about copy's I'll stop and check it out today.



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ok, if i get it running again I'll check the voltage to if it changes thanks Dennysmile



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I had one of them Mopar K-Cars well My X-Wife drove it . If you ever jumped started it . The Pick up in the Dist would burn out . Heck I would be scared to even replace the darn battery on that Joker . 2 Times it burned out from a Jump start .

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I always said mopars are expensive!! I'm not really a mopar guy but I have 2 dodge trucks. 1 has the Cummins so it doesnt really count as a true mopar i geussconfusebut this other one is a money pit and it isnt even fast. my freind couldnt make it so I'll have to wait till later to try and get it to run. I know the suspence is killing you guys if it's going run or not. haha  



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