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88 dakota surging


OK so I replaced the fuel pump, fuel reg, fuel filter twice and the map sensor. Every time i replace one thing it runs good for a couple days then something else gives up. Now it runs like its running out of fuel it idles fine but dies when put in gear if i feather the throttle and get it going it surges or starts bucking maybe it thinks its a bronco haha. Yesterday I checked the throttle position sensor with an ohm meter it seems to be working properly I have 4.87 volts at the supply and the sensor it self shows steady increase in resistance all the way threw wide open, at wide open it goes to 0. I replaced a couple fuel lines and check them for leaks or kinks im at the end with this truck, so much for cheap transportation



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rick



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a couple more pics of what i have also i cleaned the egr but not sure what the plastic deal is in line with it a line goes into the top of the egr out the bottom and back into the plastic deal



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Not sure if you did a Tune up on that Truck as of yet . But I would at Least throw a Cheap Tune up at it get the Dist Cap off and see how things Look . And take note at how the Plug Look as they are removed . Also that Ign Coil Looks to be old if not original . I have seen a weak Coil on them EFI cars cause all kinds of Problems that you would think is Fuel Related . Also Just For now as a Test remove the Vacuum Line to the EGR and plug that Line . Then rap on the Valve Lightly to make sure it it shut all the way . Test Drive it to see if that makes a big difference . As for the TPS at Fuel throttle the sensor give the ECM a 5 Volt max Voltage so you get Full Fuel delivery and Advanced Spark Timing .

I do remember you did your best to clean the two Injectors . They could be clogged with some Dirt again . On the TBI also clean the Air Bypass valve if sticking or not seating you can get the bucking at Low speed too .

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I will get a new dist cap and rotor i have changed the plugs and wires, forgot. I'm not sure where or what the air bypass is. may need a little direction on that one. I checked the injectors they seem to be making a good even spray. I replaced the fuel pressure regulator drove it about 5 miles then all this happened. I thought maybe the fuel pump i got wasnt giving enough pressure but when i hit the key it cycles then stops i jumped it with a wire so it would run and no differance in the way it runs. I also will change the coil see if that helps. I had Denny helping me the last time but i think he's as sick of this as me haha   



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went out unpluged vacume from egr I don't know what the round black deal is that has vacume lines to it then out to the egr then out of the egr back to the round black deal, but when i inspected it the bottom vacume port was pluged with carbon so i took it apart and cleaned it. It has a diaphram inside that looks to be shot and the spring is toast i put it back together and tried it just for fun and the truck ran with just a little hesitation from take off. whats that part called?   



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I did see were Denny .W was Helping you he had some great ideas and info for you but as you can see these EFI Engines have a Lot of stuff on them that can cause you Problems . More then Likely there is more then just one thing causing you Problems with that Engine . As for your EGR System . It's not Like the older carb Engines . They have a Vacuum Switch then the Vacuum Line will sometimes go to a Vacuum Check valve or dash pot that is what more then Likely is the Black Part you are referring to . That Computer Engine can Run Fine with the EGR Valve disconnected just to see if by Removing it from the Engine as a Test . If that is in Fact one of the major problems . I would Plug it Vacuum source farther back in Front of that Check Valve . Then see how it Runs . The Air Bypass Valve or also called Idle air control Valve Motor is Mounted on the TBI Unit and has a computer plug going to it . It Looks Like a solenoid . It get a signal from the ECM computer and opens and Closes as told to / and needed per Temp and throttle angle . If it's not working right it to can cause over Lean / or Rich conditions . But First Plug that EGR Vac Line farther back replace your Cap Rotor and Coil and test run it .



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I agree that there are other issues with this motor. the problem is trying to track it down. as far as i know this truck has sat for around 3 years before i got it. From what i have read a lot of people have the same problems chasing down this or that. I'm going to get a new cap and rotor along with the check valve or dash pot and see how everything goes. I don't want to put a lot into this truck befor you know it i'll be into it for more than i could get out of it, in use or money but thats how it goes sometimes   



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Replace that Coil to it can be weak and still work just Enough to run that Engine . Did you ever pull any Check Engine Codes out ? Another thing that could be wrong is a clogged cat converter or Muffler . Engine should run real well for just a few minutes then just barely run . Just had a Truck do that a Few days ago . It sounded kinda overly Muffled .



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is it possible that this could be a vac issue? i have seen a few cars as of late that had small hoses cracked that would build pressure then release cause the serge...saw one too (mine also) where a switched vac source would cause some pretty funny issues too....just a thought.

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thought about the cat, there are no emission test here so i'll remove it and put a straight pipe in its place. it's running enough now that i can drive it. the dash pot is a hard item to find this has a plastic one with an inlet and outlet at the top and a inlet on the bottom. parts houses around here are trying to sell me the dash pot and egr as a single unit $45.00 but im still looking. I checked the volts on the battery over 13 while it's running and under 12.5 when it isnt and it goes down after a while so i may replace that battery. I had another coil but can't find it may have to replace it, i did notice it's leaking pretty good. as far as a vacuum leak Ive sprayed carb cleaner everywhere and can't seem to find anything but there are a lot of plastic tubes so you never know. I did find a 318 on craigslist that runs it's in a 72 D100 so i can start it. the guy said $250 or make an offer. I'm going to replace some of the items we've talked about and see how it goes before i make the move for the 318  



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Ok for the sake of Testing (Quote ) for repair / Non-EPA type of car . Remove the Cat Converter and don't spend any money on that EGR Vac Switch or Valve Just plug it off and Make sure it seated closed . Install that New Cap Rotor and Coil try Timing it by ear and See how it runs . On My Friends Ford Crown vic 5.0 it ran good for about two Blocks . We knew the cats were broken up inside . But also his Muffler was stopped up with ? And water . After Hogging out the cats and installing a Free Flow Muffler that car was back on the Road hauling azz and getting better Mileage .

I really Like the Look of your Mini Dodge Truck . It would be a Fine Street Hot Rod Truck with a Mild 318 V8 and a 904 Trans . I am sure if you did the swap . You would grab for them Keys nearly every time you needed to drive somewhere .

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plugged the egr off no change. it still hesitates off idle but runs fine once moving except at wide open throttle where it will fall on its face untell you let off it a bit then it has power. this weekend i will remove the cat im not to sure about the o2 sensor it may have been running bad long enough to foul it if possible. I'll pull it and clean it 



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If you checked the TPS (throttle position sensor) and the Voltage fans up to 5 Volts at WOT wide open throttle the sensor is good . My Chevy Truck was at the same Point that most all of the EFI stuff was well worn out and the Engine was tired . I was at the Point of either Junking it or just keep throwing Parts at it . Then I said the heck with it and trashed all that EFI stuff and carb-ed it . I am much happier with it now . Drop that Exhaust change the cap coil and Rotor time it by ear and see how it runs . If not I really would get ready to swap that Tired V6 out .

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been driving the truck to and from work, 5 mile round trip. today i stopped at the intersection took off and it died then started again on it's own then went about 200 ft and died would not start, went and got my trailer started to pull it on and thought i wonder sure enough it started. i got it home it showed a code 42 which is auto shut down relay (ASD) is this the same relay as the fuel pump relay are they 1 in the same or are they differant? when this happened I used a piece of wire to jump the fuel pump but it would'nt start.



-- Edited by rjsbu on Tuesday 28th of June 2011 04:12:39 AM

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Most of the Time an auto Shut down will turn off power to the Fuel Pump say if the computer senses Low Engine oil Pressure or Coolant High Temp . This also works in an accident if you have a fuel pump inertia switch Like Ford uses . I don't think your Truck has that switch . But if I am remembering correctly you wired your Fuel Pump straight ign Power .

As you have someone crank it over check for Fuel spray and Spark . Could be a bad ign module if it's not working you woun't get spark or Fuel .



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I wired it direct for a test then put it back to stock after buying a new relay, and thats why i was wondering if they are 1 in the same or not. the ASR is the name of the relay but can't find another relay. I'm giving it 1 more chance then it's time for a change evileye 



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Do the check for spark and Fuel and see were your at . Then we can go from there .

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got it to start today revved it a couple times it died and had no spark at the coil or fuel relay. waited a few and it started up. checked all the fusible links they seem to be ok . adjusted timing by ear and then with light either way it wouldnt get out of its own way. surging and popping threw the tbi. it is finally throwing a couple codes 22 which is coolant sensor but i have to unplug it to set timing the next is 33 this has to do with the AC not sure what and the last is 42 Auto shut down relay this is why it turns off and after a while starts again. this motor runs so strong when it's right and i hate to give up on it but im about done.



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The coolant sensor and wiring could cause all kinda poor run conditions and more then Likely trip that code 42 auto shut down . Did you replace that coil yet ? And price out a Dist module your Losing ign spark at times . Check all the Engine Computer wiring for damage / Rubbed through spots and all the grounds as well . Sometimes you can do a wiggle test on the Engine wiring when you get your engine to run . As you carefully wiggle the engine wiring ends if you get a change in how the engine runs or get a shut down you can find weak links .



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took the fuel pump out yesterday seems it acts like its running out of fuel the drain was pluggedconfuse and i changed the filter on the end of the pump put it back together and gave it a try nothing so i pulled back out long story short fuel pump is bad and yes its new it was locking up cousing the fuel relay problems it would run then lock up i might put a new one in it i have a guy willing to buy it from me as is. have to think about it.



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I have seen the Filter that goes onto the elt Pump in the tank fall off and then the New Pump will soon Lock up . It's Best to always install a New in tank Pump Filter with the New Pump . Also you don't want to ever run these in tank Pumps Lower then a 1/4 Tank or you will short Live there Life . The Fuel Lubes and Cools them Pump's .

What Causes an electric fuel pump to Fail 



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found a good running 318 this weekend, got everything unbolted next week i'll pull it and start figureing out what i need to make it work. I put the V6 on craigslist it's a good motor just tired of chasing gremlins. the 318 is out of a 1974 dodge 4x4 1/2 ton seem to run good and didnt smoke or nock   



-- Edited by rjsbu on Monday 11th of July 2011 03:23:38 AM

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Once you get that 3.9 V6 out Lay it next to that 318 and see how much of the Pulleys and Brackets will swap over . Hopefully a Lot of that stuff will . Other then that the 318 Exhaust manifolds should work . You will want to cut the Engine Computer wiring but not the alternator / starter wiring . I did the same on My 1989 Chevy Pick up . Even a stock 318 2bbl will run great as is dropped in the mini Truck . When it's done you will Love it . I know a bit about Mopar's I will help you along the way .



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I plan on getting everything i can, even the mufflers and some of the pipe. I'll be pickin your brain when it comes to cutting the wires on that computer. the 318 has everything water pump,alternator, distributor and wires, starter and exhaust manifolds but for sure what ever i can use off the v6 i'll get.



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Yeah Bud you want to save as much of them parts as you can to swap over to your mini Pick up . You need a 318 Torque converter that will work in the trans you want to use . They balance out the Engine . There is a Line up mark dot on the Flex plate and the converter . One Problem you may have is wiring the elt V8 Dist and box . You might Look into a Plug and play type dist for easier install and better starting and Performance . How big does that V6 Radiator Look ? Is it an A/C Truck .

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