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1988 Dakota


OK I got the dakota home everything seems to work except it wont start. I bye passed the fuel relay and couldn't hear the pump run I did put fuel in the throttle body and it started for a couple seconds. Checked with auto zone and they want $75 for a new pump, they said the pump puts out about 70psi and has a return system so it probably takes less pressure to run it, was wondering if anyone has tried putting an inline pump on one and abandon the intank? also it's had a differant rear end put under it, possibly a 4x4 they left the spring pads on the top of the axle and put new ones on the bottom but they didn't give it any pinion angle, so I'll cut the pads off and re adjust the rear axle, can't tell if it's a 7.5 or a 8.25. I'll post some pictures of the ugly little truck soon    



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Check all the fuses too . If the Fuel Pump Fuse is Blown even with the Relay Jump it Most Likely won't engage the Pump . If you can Hear the Relay Clicking on and Test power to the Pump but don't hear it running the Pump is Bad . I have found corroded wire Plugs on the Frame also be the Problem . Another thing that sometimes works is if you Jump out the Relay and Bang on the Fuel Tank easy with a 2x4 . The Pump may start to run Like a bad Light Bulb that you shake . It will have to be changed but might at Least get the Engine started or get a Car off the Road and back Home . The Full PSI on that Pump is around 45 PSI . You could Hook up a Frame Mounted Pump if you used the Hot wire fed off the Fuel Pump Relay . But I think it really would be Best and Cheaper to install the in the Tank Pump . If you have a Fuel Pressure Tester install it on the Fuel Rail and see if you have any Pressure . Make sure you in Fact have some gas in that Tank and the Gauge is Working . Rap on the Tank as someone is cranking it up see what happens ?

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I'll check the fuse and make sure it's good, I've been reading about other problems and found it could be the distributor being worn out and causing the computer to shut down the system, I'll have check that out but for now I'll go with the fuel pump. trying to decide if it would be easier to remove the bed or drop the tank. I have more light and time today so I'll be able to check more. Thanks for your help Tango 



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On EFI Systems the Ignition does Trigger the pulse to open the Fuel Injectors . But most of the Time when the Ign Module / or crank trigger is bad . You will have no Spark and No Fuel . First thing to check is pressure at the Fuel Rail . When the Ign key if Turned on the Fuel Pump Relay cycles for a few Seconds to Pressurize the rail before the Ignition System takes over when cranking .

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raised the bed and took the fuel pump out it is junk. After looking at the pump decided to pull the tank and clean it, Im going to replace the pump and filter then see if it starts if it does I'll change the oil and replace some hoses and belts, do a little cleaning and drive keep my fingers crossed.



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got the new fuel pump in but no power to it, checked the relay it was clicking when i hit the power thought maybe it could be carossion so i replaced the relay. Still no pwer to the pump so I checked fuses all good. I then jumped the relay and pump worked but the truck is only running on one side of the throttle body. Can it be pluged, how do I tell if it's bad, and how do I get it out? I don't want to take the whole thing off the intake if i don't have to



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You need to pick up or rent a Noid Light to first see that you have pulse at the Injector Pig Tail Plug . If you do and it don't Spray that Injector is Bad . It the Light does not Flash you Have to check the Wiring and Injector Plug end for repair . As for the Power to the Fuel Pump . It may go from the Relay through the Oil Pressure Switch for Safety if The Truck Turned over or Crashed and the Engine Stopped Running . The Factory set them up to shut off when there is no Oil Pressure . It should not be to bad to pull off that TBI . I would Look for a Junkyard TBI as a replacement . New Injectors are Costly .

 

 



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Here is a nice Test Kit smile -> http://www.harborfreight.com/11-piece-noid-light-and-iac-tester-set-97959.html



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Thanks for the help Tango. I found some reman injectors for $59 but I would rather go junk yardin first. I read that i could put a tbi on from a 5.9 of the same years 87-90 as a performance mod but I think I'll stick with stock stuff first.



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Is yours a 3.9 or 5.2 ? I would not do the Larger TBI Mod if it just going to be used as a work truck . Also the 5.2 TBI's should be easy to find used . Check for pulse at the injector Plug end before changing anything .

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3.9 v6. I had heard of people doing the swap but I will stick to the stock set up. I talked to the guy I bought it from and he has another dakota that is an 87 and that i can have all the parts from it i want as he has no title for it. I'm going into Reno next week to look at it if it has good stuff i'll load upwhat i can.



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well I couldnt wait for the guy to bring the spare parts, so this morning I went out and pulled the injectors out and soaked them in solvent for about an hour put them back it fired right up and so far runs great. I moved the rear end back into alignment (the pinion angle was way off) tacked it into place and took it for a drive so far it runs great. later I'll change the oil and gets some new belts and try driving it to work. I'll get some pictures so everyone can experience the awesomeness haha 



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Good Deal on getting it running . I would also change the Fuel Filter if you didn't already . I think it Might be in the Tank on that Year Dodge . If so you might have dealt with it already . And for Jumping out the Pump . The best way is to take the Power wire off the the Engine on -> Run side of that Fuel Pump Relay Terminal . jump a Wire from there to the Fuel Pump . Then it's Fused and will Power off / Ign off and it's running Through a Relay . You will just be going around the Factory Frame Wire and Oil Pressure switch that most Likely has a break in it .

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I did replace the fuel filter and I might do it again after I run a tank or so threw it just to be safe. the fuel pump idea is a good one definitely something I'll do. Thanks for the help



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This Picture should be a Help to you . The Red Fuel Pump Power Wire 86 should Really Be marked as Key On Ign / Fuel Pump Power . That Wire is the one when the Ign is turn one make the Relay Live and powers the Terminal 87 to the + to the pump . So you run a Hot from that Terminal straight to your Fuel Pump at the Tank wiring Plug .   

 fuelpump_relay_wiring.gif

 



-- Edited by DennyW on Tuesday 21st of June 2011 02:15:27 PM

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Cool thanks Tango, i was afraid to try it in fear of burning something up. Does the relay cut power down some how from 12 volt to say amps? not sure about it



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This site gives you the Low down on Relay Tech -> GOOD RELAY INFO 



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having problems with the dakota Denny's been helping sort it out but getting to the piont of just sticking a 318 in it found one on craigslist in reno for $200 complete and running not sure what it takes to put it in



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If your truck does not fall under any Mandatory EPA Testing in your state . It would be far more Easier and Cheaper to set it up Quote un-Quote as an off road / Performance Swap with no Smog parts / Straight Carb and Dist non-Computerized . See that's a good deal on a 318 and it will swap in easy enough because they were Factory installed . The Bigger Problem is all the Bracket-tree and P/S Pump correct Pulleys Engine and Frame Mounts that you need . You could do you darn-est to get all that stuff off truck in your Local Junk yard . Even the Larger Ram Truck Parts for the Most part should be the same or work . I would do it Just start to Look close at how another one is set up with the 5.2 318 in it . Maybe Like some V6 Chevys the brackets will swap onto the V8 as well .


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