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Post Info TOPIC: 351W cam install


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351W cam install


gonna help a freind put heads and a cam in his 351W procomp heads 190cc and comp hyd flat tappet' should the motor be @ tdc befor tear down in order to install new cam straight up?never put a cam in before so this could get ugly

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rick



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Heck I Like to Line them all up even SB Chevy's when swapping out camshafts . Either TDC 1 or with the >< Lined up on #6 . The Ford might be a Little easier for you to do then a Chevy is . But with the procomp heads you will have to buy Roller Rockers with Polly Locks and Adjust them . The Factory 351W had tapered Studs or Fixed Pi vets that you would Just Torque Down and if all was well and set up Like stock your adjustment was set right on .

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got new roller rockers and polley locks, so i put tdc on 1 and all should go well thanks Tango  



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rick



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Yes It will go real Good . I Like to Pump up the Hyd Lifters with a Small hand Held oil Can through the Side Oil Hole en till oil come out the Top . Also Oil all the Push Rod Ends and Rocker Arm Ends and Pi vets . This is best so you can get a Correct Valve setting and for proper First Fire up . Some Folks my Disagree and do it other way's . I do it this way and have never had a one problem many engines I built years ago have High Miles and still run real good .

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got the cam installed and new heads, procomp 195's 202in and160ex valves 64 cc 1.6 roller rocker, at around 2000 rpm it has a pop threw the exhaust is this improper valve adjustment? after 2000 it's fine



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I would double check your Valve adjustment . But a Pop through the Exhaust should be a slight misfire or maybe to much total advance to soon / unburned fuel . Pop out the carb would be more on the Lines of a valve train problem . Great to hear you got that W running .... COOL .

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you know when i first sold him that motor i didnt think it ran as good as it did, not that i was trying to pull one over on him just thought it would get him through the summer then we could rebuild it, but it turned out to be better. I put the cam in for him and bolted on one head then had to go, he did the rest. I went back last weekend to check it out he said he had a popping and it was hard to start. I checked the timing and base was 22dg advanced ya a little much. i'll talk to him this week and see if he adjusted the valve lash also he put E3 spark plugs in it not sure if those are causing something

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rick



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e3 plugs are junk but i doubt thats your issue 22 is way to advanced unless your in the lower atmosphere...just joking...you might be a tooth off on you distributor to be able to even get that adwanced which would also cause that popping as well would improper firing order...these fords suck to time...i would advise renting or buying the oil pump primer tool from autozone or make you own with some sockets and an extra oil pump shaft and some duct tape like i did...cause the distributor will usually sit down perfect one tooth off and its because of the oil pump not being lined up....so if you can put the pump right where you want it , it will be much easier to get it to set down correctly..

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Them 351W's are good Engines and can run very high miles Trouble Free . What hold them back some are the Stock Head's . When I was 18 I knew a Guy that had a 351W in a 1968 Mustang Hard top . It was Blue Printed and had a set of Full Ported Ford Head's and a Nice Sized Cam . I newer did see it make any Full throttle run's . But the word was it was the Fastest Mustang in Town . The Kid bought that car Built Like it was . Just a Few Weeks after he owned it . He dropped a 1/4" nut down the carb and decided to Leave it and just run the car . That Dumb ass ruined that nice Engine .

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he must have thought that it was heavy enough to stay in the carb.....i hate hearing stories like that....

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got the cam in an all was good, now #5 cylinder is popping at high rpm my first thought was flat cam but it's running realy lean. All cylinders are running about 185degrees except #5 is running at 85 degrees any suggestions. we used plenty of cam lube and good oil to break in, have (3) 1/4 mile passes and break in time   

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rick



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Check that Spark Plug and Wire good on that cold Cylinder . And do a Compression Test on that Engine see if that Cylinder is Low on Compression . If the valves are adjusted correctly / Opening and Closing Fully and if your Low on Compression on a Cylinder . Then you have a Bad Valve seating issue .

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thanks Tango, we'll give it a try Saturday. I'm hoping for something simple like a vacuum leak, put new plug wires on problem is i can't get him to change his mind about the E3 plugs, I'm sure their not the problem in this case but i would feel better with a $1.50 champion or ngk. Well I'll let you know how it turns out

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standard autolites

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